What to expect from a Spanish university...

...not a lot.
Expect little and you will still feel disappointed.


I am now officially enrolled at university. Happy days, right? Wrong. Well, it's not all quite as bad as I may make it out to be sometimes, I like to over exaggerate these things.

So, enrollment didn't come without it's problems. It's looking likely that I'm gonna have to drop translation as they enrolled me to the wrong class which clashes with something else. I have to wait until Monday to be able to try and change the class, and if it's full by then (which it is likely to be) I'm gonna be stuck with 4 modules when I'm supposed to be doing 5. I am just really not willing to start a new course 6 weeks after university has started, imagine how hard it'd be to catch up on that work in England, let alone here?! It's not something I am going to do because of their crap organisation. Luckily my tutor says given the circumstances it should be fine. Maybe all will for once go in my favour and I can do it. We'll see!


I have also enrolled into a Spanish course. I got sick of being in Spain and not actually be able to study and Spanish as an Erasmus student. Turns out you can but it comes with a price tag. These classes were ideal as they only started a week or so before I went to take the test so I wouldn't have missed 5 weeks worth like in the uni. Although it is part of Universidad de Granada, it's in the Centro de Lenguas Modernas. The building is beautiful, it's in the Jewish area of the city so maybe the building is an old Jewish one. It's certainly nicer than Cartuja. You have to take a test to find out your level and the level you get determines how much you pay. Level 1-5 pay 140 euros (i think) and level 6-9 pay 350 euros. I got a level 6 so it's a lot of money for only 3 months teaching but it's what I actually enjoy and that classes are SO much better. It counts as 6 credits too so it's just like any other module (but better). Hopefully I'll be able to do it next term too.

In my Catalan class we also have a potential trip to Frankfurt in March. The Catalan Association of Teachers and Students (I made that up, it's something like that though) holds 3 different conventions a year throughout Europe and we've been invited to the one in Frankfurt. It's only for a few days and they take us on tours of the city and cultural exhibitions and all that sort of stuff. I'd like to go but it depends how much it costs to whether I put my name down for it. It'd be nice to go to Germany and visit my helga roots. I was born in Germany so I basically AM German.

This week I also finally met up with my UGR buddy (we get assigned one to help us with whatever we need). She took us to the coolest bar/cafe. Untypically Spanish, but an extremely cool jazz bar. It's not possible to describe how good it is. I'll definitely be taking my next visitors there. It was nice to finally meet and get to know each other.

So apart from a few ever occurring mishaps at UGR all is well. Every time I think the weather is cooling down it suddenly surprises me the next day and hits mid 20s. When is it actually going to get cold? Soon, I hope. I want to buy my new winter coat and boots (and jumpers and scarves)! My weeks feel like they have been less busy recently, I don't have a trip planned which makes me sad. That said, I do have 2 visitors coming in the next month. Emily comes in 2 weeks, then Tara 2 weeks after! Yippee. More visitors are welcome. There is a new requirement though, thanks to my Nan bringing me enough tea bags to last a whole year, all I require now is more porridge and sweet chilli sauce. I'm also hoping to do a few language intercambios with Spanish people next week so hopefully that goes well.

Tonight I'm off out for Japanese food. When in Spain, try sushi (obviously).

Chao for now,

Ellie

Bullfights and burritos

This weekend was fantastic.

On Saturday we left Granada for Sevilla. However, this wasn’t quite as easy as anticipated. I always used to be a rather laid back person, I was never the organiser or the one who panicked about being late, but something in the last year has changed. I hate being late, and I like to be in charge of what we are doing for my own piece of mind. So, when Ailish Adele and Amber all said they were going out on Friday night (bearing in mind we were leaving at 9am), I was slightly apprehensive but I had trust in them all...until 8am on Saturday when I couldn’t get hold of Adele or Ailish. Amber had to sneak into Ailish’s building and bang on her flat door to wake her up and then get a taxi to the bus stop with a still drunk Ailish. I very nearly got a taxi to Adele’s even though I only know she lives near Plaza Trinidad. I probably wouldn’t have accomplished anything but thankfully she was awake and en route. So off we went to Sevilla.

When we arrived we found our hostel. It was really nice and they even had a sign saying Welcome Ellie (because I made the reservation). Our room was small with bunk beds but we had our own bathroom and the beds were surprisingly comfortable. We dumped our stuff and went exploring. Saturday was so busy in Sevilla, street parties everywhere, we’re not sure if it was to do with the fact it was the last bullfight of the season. There were bands playing everywhere and just generally lots of happy people.  We sat down to have some tapas (it wasn’t free like in Granada) and one of our dishes was just heaven. It was very English and reminded us all of our mums homemade casseroles (my mum’s being the best obviously). The beef just fell apart in your mouth and in that moment I missed home for a millisecond (then I remembered I’m living Spain for a year). We continued to have a wonder around the city until it was time to go to the bullring. We even went in a Starbucks, so Spanish I know, it was funny because they ask your name to write on the cup. I got Elli, but the funniest had to be Ailish’s that came out as Eylish! When we got to the plaza de toros I was slightly apprehensive about our tickets, we bought them online and in the taquilla I could only see people with actual posh tickets. I thought we’d been scammed. Thankfully, we hadn’t! It was all fine and we went to our seats. The thing with bullrings is, it’s not like a stadium, and there are no steps up to find your seats. The seats and stairs merge into one. Not only was it awkward to get to your seats, it was hard to even work out where they were as there were no officials to ask. A few Spaniards grabbed our tickets and mumbled something about arriba, we sat down in the seats we thought were ours (after clambering over 5 different people). Just as the show started we got kicked out of our seats as we were in the wrong place – fuck. We now realised ours were a few rows above, but as it was 5:30 most people were already sat down so climbing over them wasn’t fun. Finally we sat down in our seats (the right ones) and it began! We were slightly apprehensive but excited too. It was very hot, our seats were the cheapest so they were in plena sol but I bought a fan so I could keep myself cool. It started off with all members of the bullfight coming out into the ring where a few photos were taken and they walked around. 

All coming out for photos

It didn’t take long before the first fight began and out ran the bull. I won’t explain every fight as they are pretty similar but here is how it went.

The bull comes out, there are 3 banderilleros that begin the fight, they tease it with their capes, and then go run and hide behind the fence. Only joking, it did seem that way sometimes though! Mind you, if a bull was running towards me I’d probably hide too! After 5 minutes or so the band begins to play and 2 picadores come out riding horses with spears. The men on horses make the first attack. They use the spear to stab the bull in the back, obviously the bull reacts and a few times it hurt the horse. Despite the fact the horses wear protection, on a few occasions the horns clearly went through the skin as you could see the blood seeping through it. 

Out come the picadores

After, the 3 original banderilleros get given; well we don’t really know what they were, some type of small spear or sharp stick I suppose. They get two, they have to tease the bull through movement then run up and stab the bull, the small spears stay in the bull and hang off it. There must be a certain time limit because they didn’t all always get a chance, and after maybe another 5 minute the band begins to play and that is the horses cue to exit the arena and for the matador to come out. 

The banderilleros taking the second stage of stabbing the bull

Each one looked fantastic. I’m not sure if there is a time limit on how long they have to do it, but generally it seemed like the bull was usually killed within 10-15 minutes. During this time, it really is fantastic, the band play fantastic music which really adds to the atmosphere. If at any point the torero is in danger, the 3 other guys will come out from behind the fence in an attempt to distract the bull/help him. 

Cape work 

All the teasing within this time frame leads up to the moment where he is given his sword, usually it only takes one hit for the bull to die, which although obviously isn’t nice, it’s better than a lengthy death. 

La estocada (third phase)

Once the bull dies, it is connected to horses who then drag it out the arena. 

The bull being taken from the arena

There was one occasion where the crowd all got out their white hankies and started waving them in the air. This means that they were pleased with the matador’s performance and symbolises that they want the president to award him the ear of the bull. There were 7 different fights in total and that was more than enough. It’s not that it’s boring, but it’s a long time to be sat there (3 hours) and it’s not particularly comfortable.

waving their pañuelos

End of the bullfight leaving the arena

All of us in the plaza de toros

So having now seen a bullfight I feel like I need to have an opinion on it. I feel slightly guilty that I didn’t hate it, I watched 7 bulls get killed and it didn’t particularly affect me, it wasn’t pleasant but I really agree with those who say bull fighting is an art. Some moments were amazing, the movements and stances of the matador and banderilleros were fascinating, and alongside the music it really felt like a piece of art. Good on Spain for keeping their traditions alive. I won’t be going to anymore until the next season. At least then it’ll be easy as I live right next door the bullring here in Granada. I doubt I will go often, perhaps if a visitor wants to go - who knows! I know my Dad will want to go, he’s not at all jealous I got to go this weekend! In all honest, you have to see it to understand it.

Sorry for the long explanation and apologies to anyone who is offended by the descriptions or photos.

After the bull fight we went to La Feria de las Naciones.

 I went briefly last weekend for a wonder. We were mainly excited for the food, as classic English people the food we currently miss most is Mexican, Chinese and Indian. So logical. We got a burrito and beer then briefly met a friend of mine. After deciding one burrito wasn’t enough we got a crepe from the French stall. This stall scared me, the people working there must have been on drugs. There was music blaring, crepe mixture, chocolate and butter flying everywhere. It was a good crepe – though slightly too chocolatey (if that is even possible). We then headed up to the Havana cocteleríá. We waited and waited til people moved so we got a good seat and sat there the rest of the night with some delicious but strong cocktails chatting and people watching.

Sunday was a relaxed day. We got up and checked out really easily. Off we went looking like the travellers we are in our big rucksacks (note: travellers not tourists). We sat and had a coffee and wonder round. We also went up to a fantastic mirador. It was quite modern and it took us ages to work out how to even get in. For 1.40 euro it was a great way to see Sevilla from above. Not quite the Albaicin or Alhambra though! 

Us all at the top

Sevilla

After that we had lunch with a friend of Adele’s at a chain called cien montaditos. It was a fantastic cheap lunch. For 3.50euro we got 2 mini bocadillos (there are 100 to choose from hence the name), a pint of tinto de verano, and nachos and patatas fritas to share. Not bad at all!! There is one in Granada so I’ll definitely be going there again. We then headed back to bus station and got our bus back to Granada.

I’m really enjoying these weekends exploring, it definitely makes up for the fact that university is an absolute joke and apparently no one in Kent cares. It’s a shame that the uni is so crap because apart from that I am really enjoying living in Spain.

So apart from my weekend what other exciting stuff has happened?

-Erasmus Grant! £3000 richer. Thank you very much. 

-Successful shopping trip thanks to said Erasmus grant.

-Potential visit from my parents and grandparents planned for next March

-Surreal visit to Albaicin with Ailish. Peeked through a window and saw 4 old traditional Spanish men playing guitar – it really was amazing.

So while the weeks are pretty dull and boring filled with classes I couldn’t really care less about, the weekends make up for it. I enrol on Wednesday and I already know it is going to be a hellish day filled with disappointment. All I want is my translation module.

Today was also the first day I felt like I missed home (not bad considering I’ve been here 5 weeks). When uni is bad and everything feels like it’s going wrong it’s not a nice feeling. Thankfully I have great friends here (and at home) who cheer me up. I also got an amazing email from my Nan. Attached was this piece of advice which I’m going to look at whenever I feel a bit sad.

“When you are an old lady, you will hopefully look back on all your travels and experiences and be glad that you had the opportunity to experience what may seem at this particular time, a pain in the proverbial. So, make a cuppa and have a biscuit, things can only get better.”

No plans for this weekend yet, I think it’s time to relax and enjoy Granada again. It’s been a crazy few weeks here there and everywhere.

Besos,

Ellie

P.S. here are also a few links to my fellow granadinos and their blogs.

Ailish 

Adele

Inigo 

Granada - the city where you get free beer with tapas

Today is my one month anniversary of living in Granada! It’s weird to think how quickly the first one has gone; I wonder how fast the next 9 will go.

I’ve had a pretty good past 2 weeks. My parents and Nan came to stay this weekend and I had a really nice time seeing them. We did all the touristy stuff (some of which I saved to do with them) and ate some seriously yummy food. The main thing I was looking forward to was going to the Alhambra Palace. It’s centuries old from when Granada was ruled by the Moors. It really is such an impressive place, but definitely the type of place you’d only go once. I did enjoy it, and if you’re a lover of gardens, architecture, and general Arabic culture I’m sure it’s the perfect place for you. We got some fantastic views of Granada and I’m glad I can say I’ve now been. Hopefully none of my visitors want to go, once is enough! I think that the Alhambra is far more impressive from somewhere like Mirador San Nicolas.

The view from the Alhambra. I live in such a beautiful city!

On Saturday we headed to the Albaicin on a ridiculously full mini bus that definitely would not be legal in England. It’s just easier to walk I think as it’s not that far – just steep. It was nice wondering around and having a more relaxed day. In the evening we had a posh dinner at a restaurant just below Mirador San Nicolas – you can imagine the views of the Alhambra lit up at night. It was stunning. The food was really nice but I think you were paying for the view rather than the food as food is reasonably priced here.

Our nice dinner

Alhambra by night

The 3 generations

Daddy

 Sunday was a lot more tiring as we headed to Sevilla for a day trip. It’s only 3 hours on the bus and an easy direct journey. I fell in love with Sevilla. It’s such a beautiful city and feels a lot more peaceful and historical than Granada. I suppose we did go on a Sunday though, I’m sure it’s just as lively! I noticed a lot less transport which obviously cancels out a fair bit of noise pollution - something I really notice living in Granada. It’s not fun living near 3 hospitals. We did loads of touristy stuff like a trip to the Alcazar, a river tour, and a guided tour of the Plaza de Toros. I really enjoyed this, the bull ring is the second oldest in Spain and was incredible. You can see where the inspiration of the Spanish flag came from – or perhaps the other way round – who knows. I also learnt a fun fact I’ve been telling everyone this week. Bulls are colour blind; the red cape is still used as part of the tradition of the bull fighting culture but it’s the movement which actually makes the bulls react. I thought the bull fighting season was over but I found out the last one is this Saturday (in Sevilla). A few of my friends liked the idea so I’m going back on Saturday!

Plaza de toros

Catedral de Sevilla

Alcazar

Plaza de España

 I just have to write about a beggar I saw, too. There are so many beggars all over Spain. I've noticed that there are usually two types with signs that go more or less like this... 

Type 1:

Ayúdame. Soy pobre y tengo 5 hijos. Una moneda por una sonrisa. No tengo nada, sólo quiero comer.

Help me. I'm poor and I have 5 children. Some money for a smile. I have nothing, I just want to eat.

Type 2:

El banco me dejo en las calles, tengo 2 hijas de 2 y 5 años. No tengo trabajo, ayúdame. 

The bank left me in the streets, I have two girls 2 and 5 years old. I'm unemployed, help me.

So basically, type 1 is general poor gypsy / black immigrants and type 2 is people who generally I do feel sorry for that have been effected by the economic crisis Spain is in and the serious unemployment issue that leaves families without any working parent. 

This is the guy I saw in Sevilla :

Help me buy a chalet in Marbella and a Ferrari

Well at least he's being honest! I gave him a euro but that's not gonna help with the Ferrari too much..

So after a really lovely long weekend with my parents I was incredibly tired and full on delicious food. However, I’m not here just to eat nice food and travel around Spain unfortunately, I’m here to study. Uni has improved since my first day but I really still don’t feel settled.

The university’s whole system is completely illogical, stupid and just plain annoying. I’m still not enrolled until the 16^th October; this means I’m not officially registered to any of the classes I’m doing. When I enrol next week I could be told that there are not actually any places left for the classes I’m taking – I’m really hoping that doesn’t happen because I’ll be in a pretty sticky situation. I would have to try and find new classes that aren’t full (meaning they would be shit/really difficult subjects) and catch up on a month of missed work. I’m still annoyed about the fact I’m in humanities too, I know I am a humanities student at Kent but here the Translation faculty is completely separate. I find it SO unfair that some other students from Kent elsewhere around Spain are enrolled as translation students. In our last year at Kent we don’t have any grammar classes; we only do translation and interpretation. All the students able to do that at their host universities this year are going to have an unfair advantage over me after already studying it for a year, and that is something I do not like. I’m sure I’m not the only one it’s happening to – I just like to moan. I’m going to talk to Kent about it so maybe the people who go to Granada next year will be able to study in the Translation and Interpretation faculty and do something slightly more relevant. Fingers crossed I’ll manage to get a place on the 1 translation module I’m allowed to do here.

Some classes go well here but others not so much. Portuguese, for example, is a joke. The teacher is an absolute dick. He doesn’t even bring his own pen, he will whatsapp in class (bearing in mind he is 60-70), answer phone calls, tell you to move the front or speak louder because he can’t hear you as HE didn’t bother to shut the door behind him, order someone to then shut the door as he is too lazy to move half a metre to do it himself, and well he’s just a crap teacher. Luckily I’ve done beginners Portuguese so I already have a basic knowledge but it’s all disappeared over summer. He will criticise people for getting things such as vocabulary and pronunciation wrong, but he hasn’t actually taught it - an example of great Spanish teaching yet again. I also got taught Brazilian Portuguese so my accent is different to the Portuguese of Portugal he is ‘teaching’, I shan’t be changing it for him though – the Brazilian accent is nicer. He did look quite surprised when he ordered me to read out a paragraph of text which he probably thought I would muck up due to my face which resembled a slapped arse, but oh no, out came my fantastic Brazilian accent without any mistakes (first time for everything). Take that!!

I had a horrendous experience the other day too. We decided we didn’t fancy getting up at 7am to go to a lecture on Monday so we’d try the 5:30 class with a different teacher. What a mistake. The teacher was some crazy woman with huge eyes who scared me. Not only that but in front of us were sat some Spanish girls who just would not stop turning round, staring and laughing at us the whole 2 hours. QUÉ???  WHAT IS YOUR PROBLEM?! They were annoying and always chatting making it even more impossible to understand the teacher. Then I noticed something horrific, the girl in front of me had head lice crawling all over her hair. We were all whatsapping each other about how boring the class was and how we wanted to leave, then I said about the nits and that was the icing on the cake for the worst class in Spain to date. After I noticed them (and told everyone via whatsapp) I just wanted to leave, she started leaning her head back every now and then which made me feel sick, keep your nitty hair away from me! I was leaning as far back as possible. What annoyed me was that they were still turning round and laughing, I felt like getting google translate out and finding the word for nits. Perdona, tienes piojos de la cabeza -that would of shut her and her friend up.

However there are some positives about university, my Catalan class uses the same material I used in Kent. The same material I already did last year and have most of the answers to – wahey!

So apart from some mishaps on the university front (I don’t think they will ever stop), life in Granada is pretty damn good. I can’t wait to go to Sevilla this weekend with Ailish, Adele and Amber. The bullfight is definitely going to be an interesting experience, but I can’t live in Spain and not see one, and I’m too impatient to wait until the 2014 season starts. And as Ailish said, the bulls are going to die whether we go or not...so we may as well watch it! It’s such a big controversy in Spain, I want to have an opinion but I really need to actually see one in order to have my own point of view on the matter.

I’ve also got another visitor booked. Emily, my friend who I studied with at school, is coming out to see me in a month. Emily, Adele and I were the only girls who studied Spanish in sixth form so it’ll be great for us all to meet up again, especially in Spain! I’m really looking forward to having her here.

Apologies for the horrendously long blog, I have too much to say. My next blog will contain pictures dead bulls and blood.

Hasta entonces,

Ellie.

P.S. I have to include this photo of me in one of the (amazing) vintage shops in Granada. I found this and just had to have a photo. I know a few people I could buy it for..

shithead