Bullfights and burritos

This weekend was fantastic.

On Saturday we left Granada for Sevilla. However, this wasn’t quite as easy as anticipated. I always used to be a rather laid back person, I was never the organiser or the one who panicked about being late, but something in the last year has changed. I hate being late, and I like to be in charge of what we are doing for my own piece of mind. So, when Ailish Adele and Amber all said they were going out on Friday night (bearing in mind we were leaving at 9am), I was slightly apprehensive but I had trust in them all...until 8am on Saturday when I couldn’t get hold of Adele or Ailish. Amber had to sneak into Ailish’s building and bang on her flat door to wake her up and then get a taxi to the bus stop with a still drunk Ailish. I very nearly got a taxi to Adele’s even though I only know she lives near Plaza Trinidad. I probably wouldn’t have accomplished anything but thankfully she was awake and en route. So off we went to Sevilla.

When we arrived we found our hostel. It was really nice and they even had a sign saying Welcome Ellie (because I made the reservation). Our room was small with bunk beds but we had our own bathroom and the beds were surprisingly comfortable. We dumped our stuff and went exploring. Saturday was so busy in Sevilla, street parties everywhere, we’re not sure if it was to do with the fact it was the last bullfight of the season. There were bands playing everywhere and just generally lots of happy people.  We sat down to have some tapas (it wasn’t free like in Granada) and one of our dishes was just heaven. It was very English and reminded us all of our mums homemade casseroles (my mum’s being the best obviously). The beef just fell apart in your mouth and in that moment I missed home for a millisecond (then I remembered I’m living Spain for a year). We continued to have a wonder around the city until it was time to go to the bullring. We even went in a Starbucks, so Spanish I know, it was funny because they ask your name to write on the cup. I got Elli, but the funniest had to be Ailish’s that came out as Eylish! When we got to the plaza de toros I was slightly apprehensive about our tickets, we bought them online and in the taquilla I could only see people with actual posh tickets. I thought we’d been scammed. Thankfully, we hadn’t! It was all fine and we went to our seats. The thing with bullrings is, it’s not like a stadium, and there are no steps up to find your seats. The seats and stairs merge into one. Not only was it awkward to get to your seats, it was hard to even work out where they were as there were no officials to ask. A few Spaniards grabbed our tickets and mumbled something about arriba, we sat down in the seats we thought were ours (after clambering over 5 different people). Just as the show started we got kicked out of our seats as we were in the wrong place – fuck. We now realised ours were a few rows above, but as it was 5:30 most people were already sat down so climbing over them wasn’t fun. Finally we sat down in our seats (the right ones) and it began! We were slightly apprehensive but excited too. It was very hot, our seats were the cheapest so they were in plena sol but I bought a fan so I could keep myself cool. It started off with all members of the bullfight coming out into the ring where a few photos were taken and they walked around. 

All coming out for photos

It didn’t take long before the first fight began and out ran the bull. I won’t explain every fight as they are pretty similar but here is how it went.

The bull comes out, there are 3 banderilleros that begin the fight, they tease it with their capes, and then go run and hide behind the fence. Only joking, it did seem that way sometimes though! Mind you, if a bull was running towards me I’d probably hide too! After 5 minutes or so the band begins to play and 2 picadores come out riding horses with spears. The men on horses make the first attack. They use the spear to stab the bull in the back, obviously the bull reacts and a few times it hurt the horse. Despite the fact the horses wear protection, on a few occasions the horns clearly went through the skin as you could see the blood seeping through it. 

Out come the picadores

After, the 3 original banderilleros get given; well we don’t really know what they were, some type of small spear or sharp stick I suppose. They get two, they have to tease the bull through movement then run up and stab the bull, the small spears stay in the bull and hang off it. There must be a certain time limit because they didn’t all always get a chance, and after maybe another 5 minute the band begins to play and that is the horses cue to exit the arena and for the matador to come out. 

The banderilleros taking the second stage of stabbing the bull

Each one looked fantastic. I’m not sure if there is a time limit on how long they have to do it, but generally it seemed like the bull was usually killed within 10-15 minutes. During this time, it really is fantastic, the band play fantastic music which really adds to the atmosphere. If at any point the torero is in danger, the 3 other guys will come out from behind the fence in an attempt to distract the bull/help him. 

Cape work 

All the teasing within this time frame leads up to the moment where he is given his sword, usually it only takes one hit for the bull to die, which although obviously isn’t nice, it’s better than a lengthy death. 

La estocada (third phase)

Once the bull dies, it is connected to horses who then drag it out the arena. 

The bull being taken from the arena

There was one occasion where the crowd all got out their white hankies and started waving them in the air. This means that they were pleased with the matador’s performance and symbolises that they want the president to award him the ear of the bull. There were 7 different fights in total and that was more than enough. It’s not that it’s boring, but it’s a long time to be sat there (3 hours) and it’s not particularly comfortable.

waving their pañuelos

End of the bullfight leaving the arena

All of us in the plaza de toros

So having now seen a bullfight I feel like I need to have an opinion on it. I feel slightly guilty that I didn’t hate it, I watched 7 bulls get killed and it didn’t particularly affect me, it wasn’t pleasant but I really agree with those who say bull fighting is an art. Some moments were amazing, the movements and stances of the matador and banderilleros were fascinating, and alongside the music it really felt like a piece of art. Good on Spain for keeping their traditions alive. I won’t be going to anymore until the next season. At least then it’ll be easy as I live right next door the bullring here in Granada. I doubt I will go often, perhaps if a visitor wants to go - who knows! I know my Dad will want to go, he’s not at all jealous I got to go this weekend! In all honest, you have to see it to understand it.

Sorry for the long explanation and apologies to anyone who is offended by the descriptions or photos.

After the bull fight we went to La Feria de las Naciones.

 I went briefly last weekend for a wonder. We were mainly excited for the food, as classic English people the food we currently miss most is Mexican, Chinese and Indian. So logical. We got a burrito and beer then briefly met a friend of mine. After deciding one burrito wasn’t enough we got a crepe from the French stall. This stall scared me, the people working there must have been on drugs. There was music blaring, crepe mixture, chocolate and butter flying everywhere. It was a good crepe – though slightly too chocolatey (if that is even possible). We then headed up to the Havana cocteleríá. We waited and waited til people moved so we got a good seat and sat there the rest of the night with some delicious but strong cocktails chatting and people watching.

Sunday was a relaxed day. We got up and checked out really easily. Off we went looking like the travellers we are in our big rucksacks (note: travellers not tourists). We sat and had a coffee and wonder round. We also went up to a fantastic mirador. It was quite modern and it took us ages to work out how to even get in. For 1.40 euro it was a great way to see Sevilla from above. Not quite the Albaicin or Alhambra though! 

Us all at the top

Sevilla

After that we had lunch with a friend of Adele’s at a chain called cien montaditos. It was a fantastic cheap lunch. For 3.50euro we got 2 mini bocadillos (there are 100 to choose from hence the name), a pint of tinto de verano, and nachos and patatas fritas to share. Not bad at all!! There is one in Granada so I’ll definitely be going there again. We then headed back to bus station and got our bus back to Granada.

I’m really enjoying these weekends exploring, it definitely makes up for the fact that university is an absolute joke and apparently no one in Kent cares. It’s a shame that the uni is so crap because apart from that I am really enjoying living in Spain.

So apart from my weekend what other exciting stuff has happened?

-Erasmus Grant! £3000 richer. Thank you very much. 

-Successful shopping trip thanks to said Erasmus grant.

-Potential visit from my parents and grandparents planned for next March

-Surreal visit to Albaicin with Ailish. Peeked through a window and saw 4 old traditional Spanish men playing guitar – it really was amazing.

So while the weeks are pretty dull and boring filled with classes I couldn’t really care less about, the weekends make up for it. I enrol on Wednesday and I already know it is going to be a hellish day filled with disappointment. All I want is my translation module.

Today was also the first day I felt like I missed home (not bad considering I’ve been here 5 weeks). When uni is bad and everything feels like it’s going wrong it’s not a nice feeling. Thankfully I have great friends here (and at home) who cheer me up. I also got an amazing email from my Nan. Attached was this piece of advice which I’m going to look at whenever I feel a bit sad.

“When you are an old lady, you will hopefully look back on all your travels and experiences and be glad that you had the opportunity to experience what may seem at this particular time, a pain in the proverbial. So, make a cuppa and have a biscuit, things can only get better.”

No plans for this weekend yet, I think it’s time to relax and enjoy Granada again. It’s been a crazy few weeks here there and everywhere.

Besos,

Ellie

P.S. here are also a few links to my fellow granadinos and their blogs.

Ailish 

Adele

Inigo